Terrific story, Daren. We used Rick Steve's when we first went to Italy. It was before his books became travel bibles. We had amazing experiences in local spots — the owners of the hotel, restaurant, winery were happy for the attention. But then we started asking locals, and our experiences were further enriched.
I cackled like a rube reading this, because it is so true. The only bad restaurant we encountered in Paris was the one recommended by the guidebook. The best meal of my life was in Florence, off the beaten path in a restaurant that looked to me like a place that catered to locals. When I walked in the door, all conversations stopped. I ordered the thing I’d never heard of, “aqua cotta” (literally “cooked water in English), and it was sublime.
I recently read that the best way to see a foreign city is to run/jog through it at sunrise. No tourists, chance to explore, opportunity for happenstance. It was the best part of our trip to Venice in March. I got to see how the city really operates: deliveries by boat, people sweeping the streets with actual brooms, farmers markets being set up, and the boat that does septic tank pump-outs. Authentic, uncrowded, fragrant.
A very good moment for me on this trip was the same--early morning in Chinon. It was the morning after the frustrating ride and finding out I'd badly messed up a hotel booking. Went out at sunrise and watched as the city woke. It reset the trip for me when I needed it. Just this past weekend, I was in Greenville, SC. Considerably less exotic, but being out before seven felt really special. I missed the septic tanks, though. Maybe next time.
I always send up a howl when one of my “secret” favorite places winds up on a top 10 list. But Rick Steves is great, and the Varsity could (and probably has) handle a line around it.
Perfect early morning read. Keep sharing. Hugs to you both.
Terrific story, Daren. We used Rick Steve's when we first went to Italy. It was before his books became travel bibles. We had amazing experiences in local spots — the owners of the hotel, restaurant, winery were happy for the attention. But then we started asking locals, and our experiences were further enriched.
I cackled like a rube reading this, because it is so true. The only bad restaurant we encountered in Paris was the one recommended by the guidebook. The best meal of my life was in Florence, off the beaten path in a restaurant that looked to me like a place that catered to locals. When I walked in the door, all conversations stopped. I ordered the thing I’d never heard of, “aqua cotta” (literally “cooked water in English), and it was sublime.
I recently read that the best way to see a foreign city is to run/jog through it at sunrise. No tourists, chance to explore, opportunity for happenstance. It was the best part of our trip to Venice in March. I got to see how the city really operates: deliveries by boat, people sweeping the streets with actual brooms, farmers markets being set up, and the boat that does septic tank pump-outs. Authentic, uncrowded, fragrant.
Thanks for this piece!
A very good moment for me on this trip was the same--early morning in Chinon. It was the morning after the frustrating ride and finding out I'd badly messed up a hotel booking. Went out at sunrise and watched as the city woke. It reset the trip for me when I needed it. Just this past weekend, I was in Greenville, SC. Considerably less exotic, but being out before seven felt really special. I missed the septic tanks, though. Maybe next time.
I always send up a howl when one of my “secret” favorite places winds up on a top 10 list. But Rick Steves is great, and the Varsity could (and probably has) handle a line around it.
Your photos are beautiful.
Mi Esposa doesn't want me to write about the Allgau because she's sure my substack post will drive millions to the region. :)
liked the piece, but not sure I want to go full "Sheltering Sky"- Debra Winger joins a harem level.
What would that look like in the French countryside? "Murray Browne: Vintner"?